perfugium miseris *

Tuesday 23 August

Having checked the weather forecast for favourable winds to make a Channel crossing, my crew decided to make the most of this *Refuge For Those In Need* for a three night stay.  It was very hot and Mate braved the laundry facilities and passed the time indulging in a refreshing shower, while Skipper tackled the never-ending list of maintenance tasks – well, my beauty takes work, you know.  The crew then relaxed with apéritifs et amuse-bouches before wandering off to enjoy a proper Greek supper at a taverna on the quayside.  [* The Latin inscription is engraved around the ring of stone just below the shelf that supports the light.]

Au revoir Londres

Sunday 21 August

After a bit of a kerfuffle about whether the lock-keeper was going to let us out or not, we finally escaped unscathed to slip into the river in almost no wind.  It’s almost always easier to leave than to arrive.  My crew had planned to overnight at Erith yacht club, but in fact the tide carried us downstream at some speed, and Erith didn’t actually have enough space (or shelter) for me, so having waved hello to a seal in Gravesend Reach, we finally settled at Higham Bight, a super anchorage just East of Gravesend.  This was calm, comfortable, peaceful and free!

Change of plans

Saturday 20 August

Having heard the weather forecast of strong winds, my crew decided we were going to stay in London an extra night, which gave them the chance to take the Second Mate up on her invitation for a meal at her new flat.  Whilst there the car battery was replaced so they could transfer the last of the house contents from the flat onto me, which involved the Mate driving her car for the first and last time straight through central London.  They made the most of the transport to do a big stock-up shop at the huge Tesco at Surrey Quays, and loaded all that into my stores as well.  Do they know how to have a good time?!

Friends old and new

Friday 19 August

A slightly quieter morning, and a grey, mizzly day.  They left me to head off for a belated birthday lunch treat at The Swan at The Globe, apparently a great river view from a lovely venue and a fabulous meal, with my crew’s longest-serving friends, who came back to see me before heading home.  Then it was time for some galley work to prepare supper for an ex-work colleague of the Skipper, and his delightful wife, who loved me and were excited to hear our plans.  He’s a kite surfer, but sounded like he would add his name to the list of wannabe crew.  I can’t wait to take them all out and show them my version of a good time.

Result!

Thursday 18 August

This morning was chores central – the Mate tackled the laundry mountain while Skipper scaled hose-gate to fill my water tanks from the distant source.  Eventually they were ready to head across London to celebrate the second mate’s brother’s brilliant A Level results, which will see him off to Nottingham University to blow up the Chemistry Department.  The whole family enjoyed a day of treats and treatments, and came home late but a lot less stressed than they set off this morning.

Crew’s away day

Wednesday 17 August

I was left alone to have a quiet day in the sultry heat of summer in London, while the crew went to visit people who can’t visit us.  However, I was prevented from being lonely by the second mate’s brother, who was happy to have some time to himself before heading off on his own arrangements.  I had more first-time visitors in the evening, and I think they liked me.  I know the lovely lady was pleasantly surprised to find me bigger, prettier (obviously) and less wobbly than the last boat the Mate took her on, and her husband sounded like he’d be up for some sailing fun with us!  It must have been a special occasion, as the fairy lights finally came out of their box and were wound around my cockpit, looking very festive.

London Town

Tuesday 16 August

Finally, I get to see the place where I’m registered, and all the sights along the river: I went under the arching road bridge of the Dartford crossing, the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge (and over the tunnel that carries the M25 traffic in the other direction, according to my chart plotter), past Fords in Dagenham, a site enshrined in the Mate’s family folklore, and through the Thames Barrier just downstream of Greenwich – a truly awe-inspiring sight for my crew.  They enjoyed snapping photos of all the landmarks familiar from land: the O2 (Millenium Dome) with its multi-coloured cranes, London’s only lighthouse and the Emirates cable car that soars over the river.  A multitude of river craft was churning the waters as we approached the lock gates of South Dock, opened for our arrival, and I effectively washed in sideways, bouncing off the stone walls in spite of strategically placed fenders, two of which gave up the fight and were later fished out of the lock basin by the helpful lock-keeper.  Once I was in he slid the gates shut behind me and some degree of calm was restored, albeit with a few new grey hairs for my poor crew, and a few new scratches for me.  Ginger beer and chocolate were the immediate remedy, and soon we were ready to turn the tight corner into our visitor’s pontoon berth.  The people tied me up without further drama, and that’s where the fun really began.

South Dock was built as the holding dock for the much bigger Greenland Dock next door, which is now the home of Surrey Quays Watersports Centre.  Smart apartment blocks have been developed around three sides of the dock, and most of the vessels moored here are canal barges and houseboats.  Most of these never leave the dock, so it doesn’t see many visiting yachts.  It is surrounded by a wire fence, and the access to the visitor’s pontoon is down an iron ladder on the dock wall, the top of which is housed in a fenced cage with a security keypad on the gate.  I’m just glad I wasn’t going anywhere, as my crew had something of a palaver to get shopping down the ladder, never mind filling my tanks with water, when the tap was some 80 metres away.  Heigh ho, never a dull day in sailing.

Anyway, this ‘escale’ was all about catching up with friends and family, and me having a chance to show off to some of the crew’s friends I hadn’t met before, and it wasn’t long before my second mate and her brother arrived aboard.  The Mate’s friendly personal trainer brought her family over for supper too, and it sounded like a good time was had by all.  I love the Little L’s visiting – they find all my hidey holes and really make themselves at home.  There seemed to be a second shift of visitors, as another couple arrived for the last of the supper just before the small people took their parents home for bedtime.  I’ve never seen so much action in one day.

Into the Thames

Monday 15 August

Today the Mate woke up as the sun rose, and saw it set – either a very long day, or the nights are drawing in towards Autumn already.  We left the Medway at 0700 in a flat calm, but enjoyed a perfect broad reach sail into the Thames on a favourable tide.  I had to keep well clear of several large commercial vessels, and Skipper caught a brief glimpse of a dolphin off Canvey Island.  We stopped for the night at Gravesend, but I’m too big to borrow a sailing club mooring, so we picked up one belonging to the Port of London Authority (PLA).  Within minutes their launch was alongside and her crew were inviting mine to part with £25, which turned out to be an expensively bouncy, bumpy night.  It was decided not to bother making a trip ashore, but there was plenty of admin to do to organise the imminent visitors to us in London.

River Cruise II

Sunday 14 August

On days as hot and windless as this, my crew are glad I have Trevver, my powerful engine friend, so we can go places without the need to shake out the canvas.  We pottered all the way up the Medway, from the mudflats and power stations of the estuary at the seaward end, past sailing clubs and moorings, through areas of heavy industry and commercial enterprise, and back in time, enjoying views of Chatham Historic Dockyard and Upnor Castle.  We had private fly pasts from a Typhoon jet, the Red Arrows, and a pretty little red plane.  Skipper found me a new spot to anchor in Sharfleet Creek, and Mate enjoyed a refreshing swim around me in water still registering 21˚C.  I dozed off in another beautiful sunset.

Superman?

Saturday 13 August

Today was decreed a rest day, so the crew enjoyed a lazy Saturday morning, but then they seemed to forget, but I enjoyed not going anywhere.  Skipper attempted to mend the puncture he’d inflicted on my tender, while Mate got busy in the galley, baking bread, flapjack and potatoes, and preparing stewed apples and some sort of chilli in advance of guests visiting next week.  I was disturbed from my afternoon siesta by an engine nearby, and was intrigued by the sight of this curious creature: is it a bird?  Is it a plane?  It doesn’t seem sure, as it flies in the sky, and lands like a large seabird on the surface of the water ahead of me.  Amazing.