Month: July 2017

Monday 10 July

The crew motored l’arrêt across the bay to a barnacle-and-seaweed-covered jetty at the promenade, to land without getting wet, change out of waterproofs and boots, and enjoy a leisurely stroll around town on a warm, dry morning. Rothesay is famous for very ornate Victorian public conveniences on the quayside – 40p to spend a penny! The tourist information office and shop is housed in the circular wrought iron auditorium of the former Winter Gardens building, and has a fascinating display of local history, as well as lots of lovely leaflets for Mate to peruse, even if I can’t actually get (them) to most of the places mentioned.

They returned as the dry morning became another damp afternoon, and in retrieving the anchor disturbed a beautiful orange starfish among the kelp. We motored Northwards up the East Kyle of Bute, past Colintraive and the Burnt Isles, which need careful pilotage. Caladh harbour was already occupied, so we tucked in just around the corner for a comfortable night in the company of a seal, herons and oystercatchers. There may have been a few midges around, too.

Sunday 9 July

It rained – all day: low cloud or mist came and went, raising hopes as it lifted, only to sink again along with the crew’s spirits. As always, by the time it eventually eased, it was too late to do anything outside or ashore. However, poor weather is simply an opportunity to do something else, so Mate amused herself in the galley and tidying some stowage areas, while Skipper made up some soft shackles.

Saturday 8 July

A day of reducing cloud and increasing sunshine, clear skies and good views all day. The crew spotted a buzzard (known locally as a tourist eagle) near Carrick Castle, and were distracted from worrying about clearing the power lines, a little higher than my 21 metres’ air draft, by a delicious waft of pine as sunlight warmed the resin of conifers on the nearby shore.

They put me on a borrowed mooring just South of Finart Bay, off Blairmore, for a lunch stop. There was a bit of swell and I wasn’t keen on the spot, so while they were distracted by food and telephone calls, I let my warp drift off the ring and started floating gently away. This encouraged them to hoist my main and staysail, and soon adjust the main to a more manageable first reef for a series of tacks down to the entrance of Loch Long. We rounded Toward Point to a new view of the Eastern Kyle of Bute, playing tag with ferries and commercial vessels. Three harbour porpoise and a large seal were spotted.
It was deemed too fiddly to attempt to enter Rothesay Harbour, later confirmed as a good decision, as the large Calmac ferries berth just outside the entrance, and inside is a bit tight for a yacht of my size. Instead, Skipper dropped my anchor among a line of yachts in Rothesay Bay, under a pastel lemon and lavender sky.

Friday 7 July

We motored down Gaer Loch, past the submarine base at Farslane, and although we didn’t see any, they could be heard on the radio. A harbour porpoise surfaced briefly in almost the same place as we saw one yesterday, like a ‘hello and goodbye’. The wind was light and bent around by high hills, causing big fluctuations in speed. Trevver helped us from time to time, especially as we cleared under power lines 76 metres above the water. They tied me to a mooring at Lochgoilhead, at the top of Loch Goil, off Loch Long, and I settled down under a beautiful full moon – it’s been so misty and cloudy it hasn’t been seen for the last few days. Apparently it’s hot in London: oh for a few of their excess degrees…

Thursday 6 July

My water tanks were emptied by Mate washing up, showering and cleaning the heads, so we could start again with fresh. Skipper washed the city dust off my decks before filling them, while Mate got on with two loads of laundry. For once a warm day with no wind, but then it rained a heavy shower. By the time Mate was back, Skipper had also filled my diesel tanks, and as it was now mid-afternoon, we motored off straightaway for Gare Loch. A selection of wildlife was noted along the way: harbour porpoise, seal, oystercatchers, terns, eider ducks, guillemots and gulls.

Wednesday 5 July

A big Tesco shop – two trolleys full – and a taxi ride home, and Mate’s old shoulder injury recurring, didn’t make for an exciting day, but they weren’t sure when they’d shop next, as we’re heading out into the islands soon.

Tuesday 4 July

A very wet birthday morning for Mate, which didn’t improve by missing the train into Glasgow by one minute having spent the ten-minute walk to the station dodging puddles and dancing away from big truck splashes. The next train was only 30 minutes’ wait in a warm dry waiting room; shame there was no coffee stall. The journey into the city followed the river amid pleasant scenery.

Mate chose to indulge her passion for the art and architecture of Charles Rennie Mackintosh as her birthday treat, and she selected two exhibits of his work in his home city: the Mackintosh Church and the reconstruction of the main rooms of his home at the Hunterian Art Gallery at Glasgow University. She was thrilled by both as they offered examples of his work in a range of different media, including wood carving, glass, furniture and furnishings. She learned that Mackintosh saw light as feminine and dark as masculine, expressed in simple, elegant lines and depicting elements of nature. She was moved in both buildings by the peaceful and inspiring atmosphere.

They took in one further sight on the tourist trail with a brief visit to the Cathedral to view some stunning windows, before repairing to John Lewis for some irresistible retail therapy. The day was rounded off very happily by a ‘Tapas Tuesday’ bargain supper with a delicious bottle of red wine – she’s such a cheap date.

Monday 3 July

A tricky departure from Kip Marina, waiting on an incoming boat in wind and tide, but we made it out through the narrow channel unscathed and were soon reaching under just the genoa into Holy Loch for lunch. The wind settled behind us and we had a lovely afternoon with the staysail and genoa ‘wing and wing’ down Holy Loch, across the mouth of Loch Long into the majestic River Clyde, once teeming with merchant ships from all over the world. These days most vessels are ferries, cruise liners and yachts, and the dock buildings are gradually being redeveloped into attractive waterside apartments.
James Watt Dock Marina offered us a very sheltered and comfortable alongside berth on a pontoon against the central pier of the original dock, which was cobbled and retained the old tram lines. The facilities, still being developed, were in portacabins hidden inside the old sugar warehouses. I was in good company, as lying alongside the opposite wall of the dock was Drum, a huge 72-foot racing yacht formerly owned by Simon le Bon and Arnold Clark, now belonging to Ocean Youth Trust (OYT) Scotland. I can only imagine how much fun some deserving young people are going to have on her.

Sunday 2 July

A misty, windy day encouraged my crew to spend time taking advantage of harbour wifi to research Antares charts for the Western Isles, Mackintosh highlights in Glasgow, and to update the grocery inventory. I don’t know why they keep going shopping for food – I’m sure my store would feed a family for a month…

Saturday 1 July

It is already the first anniversary of my crew moving aboard permanently – where has the time gone? Kip represents Mate’s very first sailing experience, around 40 years ago, when she spent a wonderful week aboard a Barbary ketch based here, exploring the Kyles of Bute and Arran in a week of warm, sunny flat calm. The village is infamous for witches and smuggling, but neither of these was in evidence through the morning’s rain. This gave the crew the opportunity for some retail therapy in the marina chandlery, as they finally tracked down the Holebrook sweater that Skipper has been seeking for months.

Other celebrations included a big brunch, clean heads and washing me down before refilling my water tanks – boy, they know how to party. Oh, and in a drier afternoon, Skipper was able to properly fix my windlass switch.