The wrong wind

Thursday 10 May

After the effort of taking me sailing for just one afternoon (and maybe the accumulation of the last two weeks’ hard labour), today was designated a rest day.  In any case, the plan is to go South, back to Germany, to pick up our cruise plan, and the wind forecast for today puts it on my nose all day, whereas tomorrow it’s meant to be from the NW, which will give us a comfortable reach…we’ll see.

The day began warm and calm, so the crew went for a stroll to check out the facilities, and Mate had her first paddle in the Baltic, along a pristine beach of white sand.  The rest of the day was spent quietly reading and sewing, enjoying the sunshine and listening to the wind blow, ease, blow, and die away completely. During an evening stroll through the nature reserve into the village, in quite sultry warm still conditions, Mate spotted forked lightning from a thunderstorm away to the South.  Sure enough, just as they got home, the wind filled suddenly from the South with a fierce rainstorm – but fortunately no more destructive lightning.

New day, new country

Wednesday 9 May

The only remaining urgent matter is to obtain diesel, as my tanks are close to empty for sailing purposes. The yacht harbour across the way was happy to take our card, but no fuel was forthcoming, so we motored across the bay to Brøndby, where Skipper very impressively manoeuvred me into a berth just long enough, alongside the fuel quay. A kind local explained the vagaries of this pump: self service, but only if you understand how – no instructions displayed, not even in Danish.

Due to the price (VAT is 25% here), only one tank was filled, but this was just as well as we had to make a quick getaway to avoid a yacht being craned into the water just where I was moored. Not only was the morning’s goal fulfilled, it also proved a useful exercise in looking at neighbouring harbours, for where we might come back to in August, to spend more time in Copenhagen with a distinguished guest. The city marinas are prohibitively expensive, and the two we visited today are not large; so far Ishøy’s looking favourite – it’s attractive, friendly and comfortable.

Having escaped our berth of the last two weeks, my crew was determined to find somewhere new for tonight, but with only the afternoon available it had to be reasonably close…so we went to Sweden. Just 21M across Copenhagen Bay, past the Øresund Bridge and wind farm, lies the small port of Skänør, on the edge of an area of nature reserve. It was already busy by the time we arrived, and the visitors’ berths were occupied by a large work boat. Fortunately a friendly local guided us to the last available box large enough for me, and several helpful yachties helped us in: we still haven’t quite got the hang of ‘Baltic berthing’. We were soon settled and supper served.

Much work, little news

Tuesday 1 -Tuesday 8 May

Another Tuesday, another storm: it’s probably just as well maypole dancing doesn’t seem to be a Danish custom, as the wind is far too strong again and the ribbons would get in an awful knot. It is, however, another national holiday: this time for hourly paid workers…while ‘white collar’ employees go to work as normal. Meanwhile, Skipper’s work continues – and without payment, other than the satisfaction of not having to pay someone else to do it.

In summary, my binnacles and all their fittings were thoroughly drenched by the hose, to determine the point(s) of water ingress, and all the holes plugged with copious amounts of filler and retested for impregnability, before the steering gearboxes were refitted: once he realised the factory had put the lid labelled ‘port’ onto the ‘starboard’ gearbox – even when he was standing watching the engineer and asked specifically if they were the right way around – lost in translation? Of course, the bolt that caused trouble in the removal of the starboard box encouraged its twin to be equally difficult in the re-installation of the port box, but this time Skipper was ready for it, and there are now two newly fashioned mounting plates in position.

If you are reading this with a technical hat on, he is considering how best to create a ‘dyke’ near the top of each steering column, to draw away any future incoming dampness from these sensitive pieces of equipment to relative innocuity in the bilges.

Next, Jeanny my autopilot friend went back home, with a lot less time and effort, and finally the heating system’s fan unit was rebuilt and re-installed. As always, Skipper worked tirelessly to get me back in good sailing order so we can resume our cruise as soon as possible; the only ‘new’ job outstanding is waiting for a calm day, so he can go up the mast to remove the failed wind indicator to assess the damage, and order the parts required for its repair. Meanwhile, my crew will have to revert to sailing the old-fashioned way – by feeling the wind, and watching the water surface.

In case it sounds like Mate has been standing by idle all this time, let me assure you she hasn’t: she keeps the ‘magic hand’ appearing at regular intervals with sustenance from the galley, deals with multiple batches of laundry, and devotes every spare moment to her current needlework project. In between, my cockpit table cover and sprayhood, both rather greener than red, were removed, thoroughly scrubbed and re-waterproofed.

They did both disappear one morning, along with their four wheels – Daisy and her brother – allegedly to replenish provisions. I did notice, however, that Skipper returned alone, and Mate arrived much later, with less hair and pretty feet. Shipshape, if not seamanlike.

The weather gods seem to have finished training their juniors and it’s settled to warm sunny days and stunning sunsets. Probably sunrises as well, but nobody stirs that early these days.

Glad of a lift

Monday 30 April

Skipper rose early to rig his bike with the gas bottle-carrying box, and strap in both gearboxes as well as the autopilot unit – a total load of around 40kg. He teetered alarmingly across the car park until he managed to build up enough speed to remain upright for the nine kilometre ride to Jefa’s factory, where he was allowed to observe the servicing process. They were efficient and friendly, and the job was done promptly. By now the wind was a full gale, and one of the guys took pity on Skipper, and gave him a ride home in the works van – just in time for lunch.

Meanwhile, Mate completed the needlework to her satisfaction: a cheerful new tablecloth is ready for our next guests. In between checking and repositioning my fenders for better protection against our large steel host, she also read a little about our next intended destinations – Southern Sweden and Bornholm.

More maintenance

Sunday 29 April

It’s true what they say about cruising: maintenance in nice places. Compared to their research closer to the centre of Copenhagen, my berth here is relatively cheap, and it’s looking like it’s just as well, as we’re likely to be here several days yet.

The forecast for Monday and Tuesday is not pretty, and the list of urgent jobs is growing: trace the source of water ingress into the autopilot and gearboxes before they’re reinstalled, fix the Webasto heating that keeps faulting and refusing to keep us warm, hoist Skipper up the mast to remove/repair/replace the lightning-damaged wind indicator: need a calm day for this one!

Mate quietly took advantage of shore power to work on her current sewing project – the list of those is quite extensive, too.

Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen

Saturday 28 April

A warm dry day with a gentle, if cool breeze – could it really be Spring at last? My crew left me quiet in harbour to take in a little sightseeing, and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Copenhagen is a smaller, more grown-up Amsterdam: canals, interesting architecture, history, a royal family and an endless choice of eating and drinking. For once they were in the right place at the right time, for at least two festivals and a selection of live music if they had only had enough energy.

They even found a good supermarket to stock up on some essential provisions. Mate caught a little sunshine before the day clouded over a little, and the only hitch was missing the bus connection on the way home, and having to sit in a relatively quiet café to while away the hour until the next one.

A Danish national holiday

Friday 27 April

Skipper had been liaising with Jefa about when we expected to arrive, and when he hopes to deliver the three items needing the ministrations of their service engineers. We have just discovered they are closed today, for a national holiday known as ‘Pray Day’. The primary religion of Denmark is Lutheran, and their custom is for all young teenagers to make their first holy communion on this day. From the busyness of the nearby café all afternoon, the formalities seem to be celebrated by long open-air parties.

Skipper spent the day removing the two steering reduction gearboxes and the autopilot. This was not as easy as it may sound, as it involved contorting his two-metre (six foot) frame into a small cramped space of awkward angles at the rear of the guest cabin, right in my stern, among the sharp edges of aluminium ribs and all manner of fittings, with almost no light.

He’d done his homework, and decided the first gearbox would be tricky, as it was his first time on this job, and the second should come out much quicker and more smoothly.

Unfortunately, this proved optimistic: the first extraction was straightforward, but on the second the last bolt refused to come free, despite ruthless use of mallet, hacksaw and drill, all to no avail. It took the whole day to yield, causing minor damage to its mount when it finally gave up the fight. Out of the hole crawled one sore, stiff, very disgruntled Skipper.

Wisely, Mate kept her head down, kept busy with several loads of laundry, and provided regular sustenance and refreshment from the galley.

Recovery day

Thursday 26 April

A necessarily quiet day of much rest, reading and recuperation. The crew did manage to stir themselves sufficiently to wander around the marina and introduce us to the nice lady in the harbour office – Havnekontor.

Ishøj Havn has the feel of a campsite about it: it sprawls around a basin of moorings, with a variety of as yet unidentified buildings dotted here and there at random. Car parks disguised as hard standing for boats in varying stages of readiness for the season materialise around every corner.

The atmosphere is pleasant and friendly, laundry is a bargain once one understands the system, and nobody seems to mind us rafting alongside this sturdy steel trip boat.

A poor day’s average

Wednesday 25 April

The day started early, as Mate felt we should give ourselves a full day’s light to complete our journey to Copenhagen, or at least a marina on the outskirts of the city, that is near to where we need to deliver the items requiring repair. By 0730, with no further signs of malfunctioning equipment, we were bouncing out of the relative shelter of the harbour into a sea still bumpy from yesterday’s wind. It was raining.

Mate stowed all my fenders neatly in the sail locker, and mooring ropes into the lazarette locker in my cockpit, before taking over on the helm while Skipper hoisted the mainsail. Soon we were following the coast of the island of Møn, that has impressive chalk cliffs on its Eastern shore, and working our way North towards our next harbour, some 45M through the murk.

Years of dinghy sailing taught my crew something about assessing wind strength and direction, but today proved how easy it is to become reliant on the electronic gadgets that do the hard work for them. It was a day of challenging wind conditions, with the variable breeze blowing primarily from the direction of our destination. Ironically for today’s passage, this is known as the ‘No Go Zone’, and means a boat has to tack – make a zigzag course, which can add a lot of miles and is a relatively slow and less comfortable point of sail.

All in all, then, it was a difficult day’s sailing: an average speed of only four knots – a brisk walking pace (if you can walk on water), wet, cold and heeled over, making it difficult to move around the boat, or do anything below decks. To be fair, it did stop raining some time during the afternoon, but this improvement was mitigated by the wind gradually backing until my crew gave up all hope of trying to sail me into harbour, hauled in the sails and motored the last hour, hoping to avoid yet another looming raincloud.

Unfortunately, my diesel tanks are down to less than a fifth of their capacity, which leaves the fuel sloshing around in a lively sea, causing Trevver to choke occasionally when he takes in air instead of liquid. Not a stress-free end to the day, then, but not, in fact, the end of the day either. We arrived at Ishøj Havn about an hour before sunset, but my crew were unable to determine the berth that had been allocated for us, and in a strong crosswind, Skipper was understandably reluctant to attempt a box berth that really didn’t look wide enough. Our track on the chart plotter looks like we were designing the pattern for a quilting project, and an hour after our entry, we finally tied up alongside a sturdy steel trip boat, apparently undergoing renovation. A friendly neighbour assured us, in perfect English, we’d be fine here, as her owner wouldn’t be going anywhere anytime soon.

A scratch supper was thrown together, and Mate was asleep before her head touched the pillow.

Still storm-bound

Tuesday 24 April

As predicted, the wind eased enough for a fairly peaceful night, and then gradually turned from being on my nose, which is the least uncomfortable way to lie, to blowing me off the pontoon, causing occasional lurches and snatching at the mooring ropes. One brave (foolish?) yacht left harbour fairly early in the morning, but everybody else stayed put, having tied down everything safely and ensured fenders were well positioned.

By mid-afternoon the gale was raging through, the wind not actually cold but strong enough to take your breath away. It pushed the cloud ahead of it, clearing the sky enough for occasional sunshine to break through.

Mate decided it was time to stretch legs and see the sights, so they wandered off for a look around the village. They were back within the hour, having checked all the menus on offer: three, one closed until May: any other sights: none; and picked up a few grocery essentials at the only supermarket in the village.