Our second Baltic capital

Wednesday 13 June

Skipper took command at 0100, managing to goosewing the main and staysail (one sail out to each side) as we slipped downwind into the Gulf, even gybing once to absorb a wind shift.

As the new day strengthened, the pattern of watch and sail changes continued, and at 1400 we were finally closing the coast under full mainsail and genoa – very respectable. We sailed right to the entrance to the Daugava river, before furling the genoa and turning into the wind to drop the mainsail. We then motored about eight Miles up this attractive river, with the usual evidence of industry on the East (port) side, but reedbanks and trees to starboard (West). The wharves and dock areas here are in better condition than we’ve seen elsewhere, although there wasn’t much more activity.

As is so often the case, there were a few hairy moments as we made our way into the new City Marina on the West side of the river and just South of the attractive Vansu bridge into the centre of Riga. A fleet of Optimists, sailed by children around the age of ten, was in the middle of race training right across the entrance, and obviously haven’t yet learnt i) to keep a good watch all round at all times, ii) the ColRegs, or even iii) a yacht under power is likely to hurt if you make contact with its hull. A few new grey hairs later, Skipper had as always successfully weaved through these additional hazards, rejected the suggested berth as we were twice the width available, and slipped into a comfortably large space alongside a finger pontoon.

In 28 hours we’d sailed 127 Miles, an unremarkable average of 4.5 knots, but it had been a lovely sail, and Mate felt vindicated in her decision to give up yesterday. A good day was rounded off by meeting the lovely French crew of Saltimbanque, an aluminium Brise de Mer 28, a smaller distant cousin of the Allures sisters. The two girls have sailed many thousands of adventurous miles, and have retained a wonderful sense of humour along with their passion for travelling under canvas. There may have been just a little green-eye at the sight of my pump-handled WC…